How To Crochet: The Kit Cardigan

The Kit Cardigan was designed using Knit Picks’ new High Desert Yarn. I’ve written out a step-by-step tutorial guiding you through the process of crocheting your own Kit Cardigan to fit your specific measurements.

Materials:

• Worsted weight yarn. I used Knit Picks High Desert worsted weight. The size in the photo used approx. 1736 yards/10 balls.
• 3.5mm/E Crochet Hook
• Darning needle
• Scissors

Gauge:

Gauge is included in this pattern if you are trying to achieve a similar look to the cardigan in the photos. Otherwise, gauge is not entirely important for this pattern as it is not written for specific sizes, but as a tutorial on how to crochet this garment to fit your measurements.

2″ x 2″ = 1 granny square with 2 rounds. See photo for reference:

Abbreviations:

_{CH                     chain}

_{CH SP                chain space}

_{SC                      single crochet}

_{DC                     double crochet}

_{HDC                   half double crochet}

_{SC2TOG            decrease by single crocheting the next two stitches together}

_{SL ST                   slip stitch}

_{ST(S)                   stitch(es)}

_{* – *                   crochet the stitch pattern within the * until you reach the end of the row/round}

Notes:

This garment is constructed in 5 panels (1 back piece, 2 front panels, 2 arms), mainly using the join-as-you-go method.  The back and front panels are joined at the side using a slip stitch, making for minimal seaming.  The sleeves are added on as you join-as-you-go to desired length, and tapered to fit your wrist with sc stitches and decreases.  Each section will provide more in depth instructions on how to work up each piece.

PATTERN:

Back Panel

The width of the back panel will need to reach from shoulder to shoulder, or across the widest part of your back. (For me, this was 7 squares across)

The length of the back panel is up to you.  I made mine to hit just below the hips (9 squares long.)  You can make it as long or as short as you like depending on the amount of squares you add.  Hold your piece up against your back from the top of your shoulders to gauge where the length is hitting.

For a picture tutorial of how to crochet a granny square, click here.

To begin the back panel, create one complete granny square as follows:

Ch 4, sl st into the first chain, closest to the slip knot, to form a ring/circle.

Round 1: ch 3, 2 dc into the ring, *ch 2, 3 double crochet into the center* 3 more times, ch 2, join with a sl st to the top of ch 3. (4 dc clusters total)

Round 2: ch 3, 2 dc into the previous ch 2 sp.  *ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch spc, ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch sp* 3 more times, 3 dc in the next ch space, ch 2, join with a sl st to the top of the ch 3.

Round 3: ch 3, 2 dc in the previous ch sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch sp, ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch sp, ch 2, 3 dc in the same ch sp* 3 more times. *Ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch sp* 2 times. ch 2, join to the top of ch 3 with a sl st.

Cut yarn, weave in ends – TRUST ME – You must weave in your ends as you go to save yourself the dreaded million-end weave in at the end of the project!

Moving forward, you will only crochet round 1 and 2 as above for each additional granny square.  DO NOT CONTINUE TO ROUND 3 – the third round of every granny square is crocheted using the join-as-you-go method found here.

Front Panels

Front panels are shown in blue.  The orange text and arrows show you where to begin joining the squares.

To create the front panels of the cardigan, continue with the join-as-you-go method as you make additional granny squares.

You will start by adding the first square on the outer side of the panel and work your way towards the middle, leaving enough space for your neck, then continue adding squares to match the length of the back panel.  (If your back panel consists of 8 squares in length, your front panels should be 8 squares in length, too.)

I formed my front panels by adding two squares to each side, leaving 3 squares between for my neck/collar.  To judge how many squares you should add, hold your piece up over your shoulders and make sure you have enough squares across to cover the front of your shoulders/collar bone. 

Keep in mind, you will be crocheting a collar/edging measuring a minimum of 1” wide.

Side Seam

The pink x marks where we will be joining the yarn to begin the side seaming of the front panel to the back panel.

Once you have crocheted your back and front panels to your preferred measurements, you can move on to seaming these pieces together.

To determine where you will end your side seam, you first need to determine how large of an opening you need for your sleeve.

Fold your piece where the back panel and the front panel join with the wrong sides touching and the garment laying flat. Tie the sides of the back and front panel together using scrap yarn.  Leave an opening for your arm to fit through.  Try on your garment to determine how many squares from each panel will make up the sleeve opening, adjust your ties as needed and remove before moving on to round 1.

My sleeve opening was most comfortable at 3 granny squares of the back panel and 3 granny squares of the front panel – a total of 6 squares around for the sleeve opening.  My front panel consists of 9 squares in length, which means I will seam 6 squares from the bottom of the garment up.

* Alternatively, you can add a panel (or panels) of granny squares between the front and back panels to create a larger sleeve opening and more depth to your garment.  If this creates a better fit for you, ignore the next set of instructions, add as many granny squares as necessary using the join-as-you-go method, and move on to the Collar/Edging section.

Joining the front LEFT panel:

Round 1: Start with a slip knot and join yarn at the inside bottom of the front panel.  Ch 1, sc in each stitch and ch sp along the front panel until you reach your desired sleeve opening, then continue working your way down the back panel.  When you have finished working down the back panel, join to the 1^st stitch with a sl st, ch 1.

Round 2: Turn your work, sl st along each sc stitch on each side to join together.  Once you have reached the end of the row, cut yarn leaving a small tail, weave in ends.

Joining the front RIGHT panel:

Round 1: Start with a slip knot and join yarn at the bottom of the back panel.  Ch 1, sc in each stitch and ch space along the back panel until you reach your desired sleeve opening, then continue working your way down the front panel.  When you have finished working down the front panel, join to the 1^st stitch with a sl st, ch 1.

Round 2: Turn your work, sl st along each sc stitch on each side to join together.  Once you have reached the end of the row, cut yarn leaving a small tail, weave in ends.

Collar & Edging

The collar and edging is worked from the inner bottom corner of the right-side front panel, up and around the neck opening, back down the left-front panel, across the bottom of the left-front panel, the bottom of the back panel, and continuing along the bottom of the right panel.

Read each round’s instruction carefully before beginning.

Round 1: Start with a slip knot and join yarn at the bottom of the right side front panel.  Ch 2, 2 hdc in the same st, hdc in each st and ch sp around. Place 3 hdc in the inner bottom left corner stitch, continue with 1 hdc in each st and ch sp until you reach the beginning ch 2 st, join with a sl st.

Round 2: Ch 2, 2 hdc in the same st, hdc in each st until you reach the neckline.  Dc3tog over the 3 sts that make up the corner st (see picture below), hdc in each st to next corner and repeat dc3tog over the 3 corner sts.  Continue with hdc in each st until you reach the inner bottom left corner st, 3hdc in the same middle st, hdc in each st to beginning of round, join with a sl st.

Round 3: Repeat round 2.  You may repeat this round as many times as you wish to create a wider neckline before continuing on to round 4.

Round 4: Ch 1, sl st in each stitch to beginning of round, join with a sl st, cut yarn, weave in ends.

Sleeves

The sleeves are worked by joining each granny square in a circle around the arm hole until you’ve reached your desired length.

You can begin joining your sleeve squares to any of the squares in the opening of your arm hole.  Continue joining-as-you-go in a complete circle to avoid any seaming at the end.  Try your garment on as you lengthen each round of the sleeves until it is sitting comfortably at your wrist.

I crocheted 6 rounds of granny squares for my sleeve length.  When joining the final granny square to the last round of your sleeve, do not cut the yarn, move on to the wrist decrease as per below:

You will be working in the round for the wrist decrease. Below are the instructions for how I decreased the stitches to make the sleeves more fitted around my wrists and have a slight balloon-sleeve effect.  You may need to adjust the number of stitches to achieve the correct sizing.  You can do as many or as few rounds as you wish!

Round 1: sc in each st and ch sp around, join with a sl st, ch 1.

Round 2: *sc 1, sc2tog* to end of round, join with a sl st, ch 1.

Round 3: *sc2tog* to end of round, join with a sl st, ch 1.

Round 4: sc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1.

Round 5: sc in each st around, join with a sl st, ch 1.

Yay! After finishing both sleeves you can cut the yarn and weave in the last few ends (because you weaved them all in as you went, right?!)

Please tag me on social media so I can see and share your work. Use the hashtag: #TheKitCardigan and credit me @kitzknitz

The pattern and photographs in this document are property of KitzKnitz. This pattern is for personal use only. You are welcome to sell the finished products made from this pattern, but please reference KitzKnitz when doing so. You may not use photos from this blog post as your own or republish this pattern as your own.